This page covers all the aspects of the Bichons. Including their history The Bichon Frise A SIMPLY WONDERFUL DOG ! The bichon frise, a little cotton ball of a pooch, was bred specifically to be a companion canine. As a result, the dog is a super-cute, super-cuddly, super-affectionate little furball. Despite being sharp, active and eager to please, bichon frises require daily exercising, training and patience, especially during housebreaking. The fluffy white doggies known today as bichon frise are Mediterranean in origin. Many centuries ago, dogs called barbets, or water spaniels, were crossed with little white lap dogs, creating four types of "barbichons," a name later cut to bichons. They were Bolognese, Havanese, Maltaise and Teneriffe bichons. The latter, eventually became known as the bichon frise, were developed on the Canary Island of Teneriffe. They probably were first brought there by Spanish sailors. At some point in the 1200s or 1300s, Italian sailors encountered the dogs and brought them to Italy, reintroducing them to the European continent. In the early 1900s, French breeders created a breed standard, which was officially adopted by the Societe Centrale Canine of France on March 5, 1933. The doggies were given one name, bichon frise, which translates to "curly coat." About a year and a half later, these small furballs were accepted into the French Kennel Club's stud book. In 1956, a French family brought their bichon frises with them when they moved to Michigan, and by 1960, two breeders were working to develop the breed in the US. In 1964, The Bichon Frise Club of America was founded. These pooches were allowed to compete with The American Kennel Club in the Miscellaneous class in 1971, and the organization admitted the breed to its roster in 1973 The Bichon Frise (BEE-shon free-ZAY) is also known as Bichon. The plural is Bichons Frises. PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION/BREED STANDARD COAT - The Bichon Frise's white double coat is coarse, curly, and non-shedding. Frequent grooming is necessary to remove buildup of fur and dander. 12 – 18 POUNDS AKC BREED CATEGORY / NON-SPORTING GROUP PERSONALITY / GENERAL TEMPERAMENT Bichon Frise have been well-loved for centuries for their playful, friendly nature. The jaunty breed is well-mannered and often loves to show off to anyone who will watch. The curious, cheerful Bichon is easily won over with treats and praise. While uncommon, some Bichon bloodlines exhibit shyness. Early socialization will help raise an outgoing Bichon Frise. FAMILY LIFE Are Bichons Frises Good with Kids? The Bichon Frise often does well with children—as long as the children treat the dog with care and the dog is properly socialized. The breed is sturdier than many small breed dogs and their personality makes them a good choice for families, but rough play should not be allowed to prevent injury to both the dog and child . Are Bichons Frises Good with Other Pets? Bichons Frises are often a good match for households with dogs, cats, and other pets. PROTECTIVE While the Bichon Frise isn't a guard dog, they will offer an alert bark if someone approaches the home. ENERGY LEVELS Bichons Frises have a moderate energy level, but because they are small they tire easily. The 'Bichon Blitz' is a burst of high-energy antics that many Bichons Frises display, sometimes more than once per day—often running around rooms and leaping over furniture with impressive speed and agility. Specific Concerns Can suffer from separation anxiety May be difficult to housebreak Excessive grooming needs Can become territorial REQUIREMENTS Indoor the merry little Bichon Frise is a wonderful indoor companion. They adapt well to apartment living. They are well-behaved when trained, but may be difficult to housebreak. Outdoor Walks and outdoor play are both favorite activities of the Bichon Frise. Bichons are not meant to live outdoors. Not only do they dislike being left alone, their long, high-maintenance coat may get tangled or matted. Exercise While the Bichon Frise has a moderate energy level, they don't require hours of activity to tire. Two walks outdoors—about 30 minutes per day—and indoor play may be all the Bichon needs to be happy. Endurance While energetic, Bichons do not tend to have the stamina for strenuous activity. Activity distance rating Running Miles: While the Bichon Frise is a small breed, if well-conditioned they may have the energy for an easy jog. A healthy adult Bichon Frise may be able to jog a couple of miles. Hiking Miles: Adult Bichons Frises may be able to work up to five-mile hike, if in good health and given plenty of breaks along the way. They are hearty, but they are small—climbing may be difficult for their small legs. Food Bichons Frises are food motivated and respond well to treats during training. Our general recommendation for how much high-quality homemade dog food (based on average weight and activity level) to feed is 1 to 1.5 cup per day. This amount should be split between two meals. The Bichon Frise is not more likely to guard food more than other breeds, but children should never be allowed to touch or remove food while any dog is eating. Alone Time Bichons are—and always have been—companion dogs. They desire time with their family, and may suffer from separation anxiety if left alone for long periods of time. They can stay home alone for three to four hours at a time, but they may need to be crate trained to prevent destructive behaviors. HEALTH AND GROOMING LIFE EXPECTANCY 14 - 15 years GROOMING While Bichons Frises do not shed, their double coat grows continually and needs frequent brushing, trimming, grooming, and bathing to remove old hair and prevent matting. Bichons need to visit the groomer every four to eight weeks, and should be brushed weekly at the minimum, daily is better. Trimming nails regularly will help prevent painful splitting, cracking, or a broken nail. Bichons may be prone to ear infections; regular ear cleaning can help prevent them. COMMON HEALTH ISSUES Bichon Frise can be prone to breed-specific health concerns, including: Dental concerns Patellar luxation Heart disease Cataracts and eye disease Skin allergies You can minimize serious health concerns in a Bichon Frise by purchasing him from a reputable breeder who engages in responsible breeding practices, and through screening for common diseases and conditions. TRAINABILITY BASICS The smart Bichon Frise learns basic obedience with ease. Positive reinforcement, treats, and praise will earn plenty of clever tricks. Teaching a recall early is beneficial as the small, fast Bichon is difficult to catch if it gets loose. Early socialization is important to prevent fearful behaviors as some bloodlines are more timid. As with most small breed dogs, the Bichon may be difficult to housetrain. ADVANCED TRAINING These former circus dogs still have plenty of tricks up their sleeves. Bichons love to show off at every opportunity, and they learn advanced tricks with ease. Keep training sessions fun and interesting, with plenty of praise—and no harsh punishments. The small, yet athletic breed loves agility because it's an activity that involves spending time with people. Bichons have been trained as service dogs and can provide valuable support in this capacity, though it isn't a common choice for the job. SPORTING DOG TRAINING While the type of water spaniel from which the Bichon Frise developed was a hunting and retrieving dog, the Bichon Frise isn't a sporting dog. The friendly Bichon's purpose was a companion to nobility and royalty. Many Bichons Frises still possess a strong prey drive that may be harnessed for use as a flushing dog, but it is an unconventional breed for hunting. If used afield, the Bichon's long coat would need excessive care to prevent mats and to remove twigs, burrs, and debris after a hunting excursion. Managing your adolescent puppy Your puppies are now approaching their first birthdays, as well as adolescence - the equivalent of their troublesome teenage years. This can be a difficult stage in your puppy's life. Know how best to handle them as they transition from puppy to adult dog. When puppies become adults Adolescence marks the change from being a puppy to becoming an adult. In dogs, it can start any time between six and 12 months and can end between 18 and 24 months . During this time, there are dramatic hormonal changes and a reorganization of the brain. Do dogs go through a rebellious stage? These hormonal changes can make adolescent dogs appear less obedient. However, what's really happening is that they're increasingly motivated to explore, interact and run. They also have a greater need to interact with their environment and the people in it. Just like human teenagers, adolescent dogs have the energy and motivation to do more. More exploration, more play, more interaction with their friends (humans and non-humans!), but they lack the necessary knowledge and experience to think about and manage their actions and reactions. Teenage dogs are a lot more energetic and interactive. They can easily find themselves in conflict when they're asked to stop doing something, or simply to calm down. It even happens in situations when they used to be 'obedient' and responded instantly. This kind of change is often interpreted by owners as the dog being stubborn or trying to assert their dominance. Instead, it's their dog finding it difficult to control their impulses. Dog adolescence can cause frustration Some dogs, depending on their temperament (or personality), may become frustrated when they can't get what they want. Because this is a negative emotion, it can trigger negatively motivated behaviours. This includes excessive barking and annoying behaviours like jumping up, scratching, nipping, biting the lead and even aggression. It's unsurprising that many owners report big changes in their dogs' behaviour. Sadly, adolescence is a time when some puppies may find themselves being rehomed. The good news is that this period of problematic behaviour does pass. We've pulled together some top tips to help you through this difficult 'teenage' phase. Dealing with adolescent behaviour in dogs Rather than focusing on how to control an adolescent dog, we need to think about how we can satisfy their physical and behaviour needs. Learning the ability of teenage dogs is better than that of adult dogs or puppies. The best thing to do is to focus some of their energy towards structured play and exercise sessions. You can play searching games, scent puzzles and take long walks in quiet areas. We also need to think about how we can prevent situations in which our dog may be more excitable or frustrated. We can do this by giving them some activities before the event or by giving them something to do that can help them to cope with frustration. Avoid frustration at dinner time Dogs in general, and young dogs in particular, get frustrated when people eat. Because they also want the food and cannot participate, they may jump, bark and scratch. Minimize their frustration by feeding your pet before you eat, then giving them something to chew or perhaps a dog puzzle while you eat. Keep your pup stimulated Not being able to get people's attention can also be frustrating, but predictability is the best way to avoid frustration. Try increasing the variety of interactive games in your dog's routine. Play with a ball or a frisbee, or hiding something that your dog has to find Remember to give cues about when the play session starts and when it finishes. For example, you can tell the dog 'playtime' or show a toy. When you want to finish, just say 'finish' and throw the toy in the opposite direction, or remove it and give your dog something to occupy themselves with. This is useful to minimise the frustration at the end of a pleasant activity. You can also scatter some treats or give your dog something nice to chew. Don't tell your dog off If your dog was used to playing with other dogs, but started to become too boisterous or even aggressive, telling them off is only making the problem worse. Instead, try to distract your dog and remove them from the situation using a happy voice rather than a reprimand. If your dog has dog friends, you can continue to socialise with the dogs they know. Minimise their exposure to other dogs for a while though. Avoiding repeated negative experiences in the presence of other dogs will help stop the problem from getting worse. Keep your dog active Adolescent dogs are energetic! Longer walks in quiet areas, lots of exploration and simply using their nose are a few of the most rewarding activities for dogs. Some adolescent dogs seem to become more fearful and anxious . This can be the reason why they don't follow their owners' requests or even start to show behaviors such as destructiveness, house soiling or excessive barking. It's really important that they're not punished for their 'bad manners'. Telling dogs off, shouting or using more physical methods can make dogs even more scared and worried and their behaviour can get worse. In these types of situations, ask a professional for help . What if nothing is helping? If nothing you're doing seems to help, it's important to get some help and advice. Sometimes bad behaviour can be caused by an underlying medical or health issue. It's important to get your pet checked by a vet first to rule this out. They can then refer you to a behaviour expert if necessary. To sum up, if your adolescent dog seems to have lost his 'manners', think about how to provide more positive activities. Avoid exposing them to situations that may excite or frustrate them, avoid any kind of punishment and be patient. This phase will pass! Find more advice, tips and health information for caring for your dog .

You will find our trusted transporters here. You must reach out to them directly as prices will vary depending on location. Ground Transportation Highly recommended, NC local, pet transport company we use and love is, Semper Fi Transport semperfipettransport@gmail.com 910-358-4606 semperfipettranspo.wixsite.com Veteran owned and USDA certified business based out of Jacksonville,NC. Dedicated, Prompt and Safe delivery Please contact them directly as everyone's needs and travel distances are different. They will be able to quote you an exact price for their services. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Liberty Acres Pet Resources www.libertyacrespetresourses.com / libertyacres501@gmail.com / Tel: (501) 336-4274 You have purchased your new fur family member from an out of state breeder and anxiously await the time when he or she is ready to join you in your home. As the anticipation grows, we understand that sometimes your work or life doesn't allow you to drop everything and travel to get your new bundle of joy. This is where Liberty Acres Pet Transport steps in! Transporting your new furbaby is an honor and pleasure they don't take lightly. They offer several options to make the exciting reunion possible! Flight Nanny Services Thier flight lap nanny services allow new pup parents the peace of mind that their pup is accompanied every step along the way over greater faster distances to their new furever home. We remove the stress of planning and booking flights by taking care of all the details. Communication and photos of the furbaby are regular throughout the entire process. Pups must be at least 8 weeks old and weigh under 20lbs. For information on rates and flight availability, contact them via phone, text, or email.

We like to tell our puppy parents to do the minimum vaccinations necessary to keep your puppy healthy. Which Vaccinations Do Puppies Need? Going to the vet repeatedly over several months for vaccinations, and then for boosters throughout your dog’s life, may seem like an inconvenience, but the diseases that vaccinations will shield our pets from are dangerous, potentially deadly, and, thankfully, largely preventable. We read about so many different vaccinations, for so many different illnesses, that it can sometimes be confusing to know which vaccinations puppies need and which ones are important but optional. Here is an overview of the diseases that vaccinations will help your pet to avoid. Bordetella Bronchiseptica This highly communicable bacterium causes severe fits of coughing, whooping, vomiting, and, in rare cases, seizures and death. It is the primary cause of kennel cough . There are injectable and nasal spray vaccines available. Canine Distemper A serious and contagious disease caused by a virus that attacks the respiratory, gastrointestinal (GI), and nervous systems of dogs, raccoons, skunks, and other animals, distemper spreads through airborne exposure (through sneezing or coughing) from an infected animal. The virus can also be transmitted by shared food and water bowls and equipment. It causes discharges from the eyes and nose, fever, coughing, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, twitching, paralysis, and, often, death. This disease used to be known as “hardpad” because it causes the footpad to thicken and harden. There is no cure for distemper. Treatment consists of supportive care and efforts to prevent secondary infections, control symptoms of vomiting, seizures and more. If the animal survives the symptoms it is hoped that the dog’s immune system will have a chance to fight it off. Infected dogs can shed the virus for months. Canine Hepatitis Infectious canine hepatitis is a highly contagious viral infection that affects the liver, kidneys, spleen, lungs, and the eyes of the affected dog. This disease of the liver is caused by a virus that is unrelated to the human form of hepatitis. Symptoms range from a slight fever and congestion of the mucous membranes to vomiting, jaundice, stomach enlargement, and pain around the liver. Many dogs can overcome the mild form of the disease, but the severe form can kill. There is no cure, but doctors can treat the symptoms. Canine Parainfluenza One of several viruses that can contribute to kennel cough (see above). Corona Virus This is a virus that usually affects dogs’ gastrointestinal systems, though it can also cause respiratory infections. Signs include most GI symptoms, including loss of appetite, vomiting, and diarrhea. Doctors can keep a dog hydrated, warm, and comfortable, and help alleviate nausea, but there is no drug that kills coronaviruses. Heartworm When your puppy is around 12-to-16 weeks, talk to your vet about starting her on a heartworm preventative especially if your pet is an "outside" dog. Though there is no vaccine for this condition, it is preventable with regular medication. The name is descriptive—these worms lodge in the right side of the heart and the pulmonary arteries (that send blood to the lungs), though they can travel through the rest of the body and sometimes invade the liver and kidneys. The worms can grow to 14 inches long (ick!) and, if clumped together, block and injure organs. A new infection often causes no symptoms, though dogs in later stages of the disease may cough, become lethargic, lose their appetite or have difficulty breathing. Infected dogs may tire after mild exercise. Unlike most of the diseases listed here, which are passed by urine, feces, and other body fluids, heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes. Therefore, diagnosis is made via a blood test and not a fecal exam. The FDA has more information about heartworm. Kennel Cough Also known as infectious tracheobronchitis, kennel cough results from inflammation of the upper airways. It can be caused by bacterial, viral, or other infections, such as Bordetella and canine parainfluenza, and often involves multiple infections simultaneously. Usually, the disease is mild, causing bouts of harsh, dry coughing; sometimes it’s severe enough to spur retching and gagging, along with a loss of appetite. In rare cases it can be deadly. It is easily spread between dogs kept close together, which is why it passes quickly through kennels. Antibiotics are usually not necessary, except in severe, chronic cases. Cough suppressants can make a dog more comfortable. Leptospirosis Unlike most diseases on this list, Leptospirosis is caused by bacteria, and some dogs may show no symptoms at all. Leptospirosis can be found worldwide in soil and water. It is a zoonotic disease, meaning that it can be spread from animals to people. When symptoms do appear, they can include fever, vomiting, abdominal pain, diarrhea, loss of appetite, severe weakness and lethargy, stiffness, jaundice, muscle pain, infertility, kidney failure (with or without liver failure). Antibiotics are effective, and the sooner they are given, the better. Lyme Disease Unlike the famous “bull’s-eye” rash that people exposed to Lyme disease often spot, no such telltale symptom occurs in dogs. Lyme disease (or borreliosis) is an infectious, tick-borne disease caused by a type of bacteria called a spirochete. Transmitted via ticks, an infected dog often starts limping, his lymph nodes swell, his temperature rises, and he stops eating. The disease can affect his heart, kidney, and joints, among other things, or lead to neurological disorders if left untreated. If diagnosed quickly, a course of antibiotics is extremely helpful, though relapses can occur months or even years later. Parvovirus Parvo is a highly contagious virus that affects all dogs, but unvaccinated dogs and puppies less than four months of age are at the most risk to contract it. The virus attacks the gastrointestinal system and creates the loss of appetite, vomiting, fever, and often severe, bloody diarrhea. Extreme dehydration can come on rapidly and kill a dog within 48-to-72 hours, so prompt veterinary attention is crucial. There is no cure, so keeping the dog hydrated and controlling the secondary symptoms can keep him going until his immune system beats the illness. Rabies Rabies is a viral disease of mammals that invades the central nervous system, causing headache, anxiety, hallucinations, excessive drooling, fear of water, paralysis, and death. It is most often transmitted through the bite of a rabid animal. Treatment within hours of infection is essential, otherwise, death is highly likely. Don't think that Possums, squirrels or foxes won't bother your dog, If they are infected. they can harm. or kill your pet if not protected by a vaccination. Most states require rabies vaccination. Check with your vet about rabies vaccination laws in your area. Of course, your veterinarian should weigh in and can always provide more information and guidance if needed on necessary and optional vaccinations. But remember, their is such a thing as "over vaccinating" Puppy’s Age to Adult Minimum Recommended Vaccinations 6 – 8 weeks first puppy shots : (DHLPP) + Corona (Distemper, Hepatitis, Canine Adenovirus, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza & Parvovirus) 10 – 12 weeks second puppy shots : (DHLPP) + Corona (Distemper, Hepatitis, Canine Adenovirus, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza & Parvovirus) 15 - 16 weeks - Third puppy shot : (DHLPP) + Corona (Distemper, Hepatitis, Canine Adenovirus, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza & Parvovirus) Over 4 months : Puppy Rabies (usually 1 year coverage) 7 to 9 month : First Heartworm test. 12 – 16 months : First Adult shots : Rabies (adult Rabies normally 1 - 3 yrs coverage) , Yearly : Heartworm test & Bordetella Our choice for Heart worm and Flea & Tick medications Start Heart worm medication when your pup reaches 5 lbs., then every 30 days thereafter. Use flea and tick drops only during the season

This page is provided for puppy parents who can't visit in person, so they may watch their puppies grow Puppy Nursery $2500 - for male or female pups Available Pups Date of birth - 3/25/26 Go home date - 5/20/2026 Cookie & Boss Reserved boy boy Reserved Reserved boy boy girl Reserved Reserved Videos coming soon Planned Litters Bunny & Levi Estimated birth 4/1/26 Estimated go home 6/1/26 The Puppy Process Once the puppies are born and thriving (7-10 days) We ask for a $300 deposit to help ensure the pup has a forever home when ready. Balance due can be paid at time of pick up but must be in guaranteed funds either a bank issued cashier's check or cash. We encourage puppy parents to come and visit with us to see their new baby in person during his/her 8-10 week stay here. Photos and videos will be provided via Facebook, our website and YouTube so that you are able to follow your puppy's progress! We are always here to answer your questions so please don't be shy!! Our new puppy pack will include American Kennel Club paperwork for registration of your new puppy, puppy wellness checkup receipt and shot record, starter bag of our food and informational pages. 1 "litter familiar" blanket and his/her favorite toy (more to help with transition) Our puppies are held for a minimum of 8 weeks, it is important that our pups stay with mom and litter mates for at least 8 weeks for puppies' temperament, learning, development, and future interaction with other dogs, children and other people. This is the period when a puppy learns from dam and litter mates, proper interaction and manners with other dogs, how to moderate their bite pressure, food bowl manners, pack structure, understanding and interaction and much more. This experience , training and interaction CAN NOT be replicated effectively outside the dam/litter mate environment. This time with dam and litter mates helps produce a stable, well adjusted, happy adult dog!!! The beginning stages of potty training takes place at around 4 weeks and continues until they leave. First from a puppy crate to "wee-wee" pad and eventually thru the puppy door to the outside first thing in the morning and immediately after meals. Past Puppies 1/1 Puppy Nursery $2500 - for male or female pups Available Pups Date of birth - 3/25/26 Go home date - 5/20/2026 Cookie & Boss Reserved boy boy Reserved boy boy girl Reserved Videos coming soon Reserved Planned Litters Bunny & Levi Estimated birth 4/1/26 Estimated go home 6/1/26 The Puppy Process Once the puppies are born and thriving (7-10 days) We ask for a $300 deposit to help ensure the pup has a forever home when ready. Balance due can be paid at time of pick up but must be in guaranteed funds either a bank issued cashier's check or cash. We encourage puppy parents to come and visit with us to see their new baby in person during his/her 8-10 week stay here. Photos and videos will be provided via Facebook, our website and YouTube so that you are able to follow your puppy's progress! We are always here to answer your questions so please don't be shy!! Our new puppy pack will include American Kennel Club paperwork for registration of your new puppy, puppy wellness checkup receipt and shot record, starter bag of our food and informational pages. 1 "litter familiar" blanket and his/her favorite toy (more to help with transition) Our puppies are held for a minimum of 8 weeks, it is important that our pups stay with mom and litter mates for at least 8 weeks for puppies' temperament, learning, development, and future interaction with other dogs, children and other people. This is the period when a puppy learns from dam and litter mates, proper interaction and manners with other dogs, how to moderate their bite pressure, food bowl manners, pack structure, understanding and interaction and much more. This experience , training and interaction CAN NOT be replicated effectively outside the dam/litter mate environment. This time with dam and litter mates helps produce a stable, well adjusted, happy adult dog!!! The beginning stages of potty training takes place at around 4 weeks and continues until they leave. First from a puppy crate to "wee-wee" pad and eventually thru the puppy door to the outside first thing in the morning and immediately after meals. Past Puppies 1/1

This information although not conclusive, with help you make a better choice Male or Female ? So you have decided you want a dog, but what to get, male or female? The answer to this question may differ depending on the person that is being asked. Some people actually believe that one sex is better than the other sex. The battle of the sexes is not limited to humans after all. Some believe that the male dog is more affectionate and easier to train, while the female dog is more aggressive and protective of its owners and puppies. Well, the truth is that when it comes to dogs and puppies there is no superior sex. The qualities cited above are just the anecdotal observations of many dog owners. There is no study that has proved any general truism that a dog will behave a certain way because it is male or female. Behavioral Differences The behavior of a dog will depend on how it is raised and trained as a puppy. Some dogs are more affectionate or aggressive than others because of the environment they were raised. The decision of whether to get a male or a female puppy is entirely dependent on the preference of the owner-to-be. Now, the behavior of a dog may depend on its training, but the sex of a dog can dictate its ability to learn from that training. It is a fact that a female dog is smaller in size and tends to reach maturity faster than the male dog. Its early maturity gives it an advantage when it comes to training. This does not mean the female is more intelligent than the male dog. It only means that the female dog will be easier to train than a male dog of the same age because it is more mature. The female dog comes into estrus two times a year. Also known as the “heat” cycle, this season will last about two weeks or as long as three weeks. During this period, the female dog produces a bloody vaginal secretion that acts as a lure for male dogs. If you do not want your female dog to breed during her heat cycle, you must keep her locked inside or isolated from any male dogs. It is also best to keep her locked in an area where the floors are not carpeted so that her bloody discharge will not stain the carpets. If you have no plans to breed your female dog then consider having her spayed. Keep in mind that spayed dogs are ineligible for entry into dog shows, so if you have no plans of competing with your dog the best time to have a female dog spayed is when she is about 10 to 12 months old or when they reach their full growth potential. Spaying has been shown to lower the risk of ovarian or uterine diseases in most female dogs. It is also believed that spaying has positive effects on the behavior of a female dog. It has been observed by many that female dogs have a better temperament after they have been spayed, often displaying much less aggression and becoming more mellow. Needless to say, spaying also prevents accidental or unwanted pregnancies, so it is important to make sure you take care of it as early as possible if you do not want to breed your dog. The non-neutered male dog, on the other hand, tends to be more dominant and high-spirited. He has an innate urge to dominate other dogs that are smaller, and will sometimes try to dominate their owner as well. A weak owner can easily be dominated by a large male dog. It is very important to start obedience training as soon as he / she is ready to be trained. A neutered dog, spayed female is generally less aggressive, calmer and less likely to roam.

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This information is very important to the health of you Bichon. We recommend waiting until they reach their full growth potential before spaying or neutering. Pediatric Neutering An increasing body of evidence shows that neutering (including spaying) male and female dogs can have adverse health effects such as an increased risk of certain joint disorders (hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and cranial cruciate ligament rupture) and cancer (lymphoma, mast cell tumor, hemangiosarcoma, and osteosarcoma). However, this risk varies depending on the breed, age at neuter, and sex of the dog. With funding from the AKC Canine Health Foundation (CHF), researchers examined medical records from the University of California, Davis Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital to analyze these risks. They have created guidelines based on breed, sex, and body weight regarding when to neuter a dog in order to avoid increasing the risks of these joint disorders and cancers. Referances : https://doi.org/10.3389/fvets.2020.00388 https://doi.org/10.3389/fvets.2020.00472

We found this information online and felt it was great information for new Bichon parents First Day with your new Bichon Your First Day at Home With a New Puppy: Tips For Day One The day you bring your new Bichon home, is the day you’ve been waiting for. It’s your first day as long-term companions, and you want to begin bonding with your pup immediately. Start off right by staying home, so you can make your puppy feel secure and enjoy every minute of this experience. Here are some tips to make sure the first day is the best it can be for your puppy, for you, and for your family. Introducing Puppy to a New Home Limit your puppy’s access. Too many new places, smells, and people at once may confuse him. Instead, let him explore a designated area where you are, too. Then introduce him to the rest of the house, one room at a time. Choose a potty spot. Start by taking him to the outside area where you want him to eliminate. When he does relieve himself, use a command that you’ll stick to like “go potty” and reward him with a special treat and praise. Introduce him to his new family. If possible, do this one person at a time. Give him a chance to meet each of you quietly. Supervise young children. Discourage them from picking up the puppy. Let them hold him in their laps with your help. Minimize stress and excitement. Don’t invite friends and neighbors over to meet him yet. That will be important very soon, but should not start on the first day. Introduce other family pets. Puppies are still developing their communication skills and don’t understand the rules set in place by adult dogs. As long as an adult dogs behavior is appropriate when correcting a puppy, it’s okay if she growls a little. If the elder dog becomes agitated, separate or redirect the puppy. Don’t interact with dogs outside your home. Because your puppy hasn’t gotten all his shots, he shouldn’t interact with strange dogs or even walk where other dogs do. Start enforcing rules. The puppy needs to learn the house rules from the very beginning. Praise good behavior. Set your rules ahead of time and stick to them, for example: Where do you want puppy to sleep? Is puppy allowed on furniture? Start a Routine and Stick to It Structure will help your new Bichon feel secure and understand what’s expected of him. Routine makes it easier for everyone, humans included. Create a schedule and stick to it ! Mealtime, however you decide to feed your puppy, 2 or 3 times a day, put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. What goes in on a regular schedule will come out on a regular schedule. Potty breaks Every time your puppy eats, drinks, wakes up, plays, sniffs around the room — most young puppies have to pee at least every 45 minutes when awake. Pick the puppy up and carry him to the designated potty area. Never punish him for house training “mistakes.” When he pees or poops outside, reward him immediately. Playtime: Your puppy needs exercise and interaction with you. A word of caution: sustained, strenuous exercise (long runs, jumping) is not good for puppies, but playing with toys and with you, mental stimulation with puzzles, and running in the yard are great. A tired puppy is a good puppy. Dreamland: Young puppies sleep alot; in fact, some will sleep 16-to-18 hours a day. Plan on several nap times during the day. You may need to put a crate in a quiet part of the house so he won’t be disturbed. At night, set a puppy bedtime and help him get used to the routine. Surviving the First Night Some puppies sleep through the night right from the start. Others may cry for a few nights. And some may not be able to hold their pee and will need a middle of the night trip outside. Hopefully before too long this will be over. For many puppies, evening is the “witching hour,” and if you anticipate it by initiating play, he may use up some energy and settle down. An evening stroll gives him exercise and a chance to take a potty break. Be sure he potties right before bed. Put the crate in your bedroom if need be. Your pup will feel more secure if he has you nearby. Our supplied blanket and stuffed toy that smells like his mother and siblings should be in his crate. A set bedtime makes his adjustment and house training easier for everyone. It doesn’t matter if it’s 8 p.m. or midnight, as long as it becomes a routine. Take him to his crate and help him settle down for the night – giving him a small treat when he goes in willingly. If your puppy is not yet able to make it through the night, when he whines, quietly carry him out for a quick, boring potty break. Then put him back in the crate. If the pup cries, do not put him in your bed unless that is where you want him to sleep. You can put the crate right next to your bed and put your hand inside to reassure him that you’re there. A crate is like a den where a puppy normally won’t pee. Building Strong Bonds With lots of affectionate contact with the family, consistent rules and routine, and rewards for good behavior, your puppy will quickly learn his place in his new “pack.” Most importantly, you will establish a bond that will endure throughout his life.

This is our current breeding male and females. Click "link" to see pedigree Sires and Dams Our Bichons live in our home with us. They are family members and loved and cherished as such. We breed for quality, not quantity Levi (Stud) Cape Fear's Levi Sugar Cape Fear's Powdered Sugar Coco Cape Fear's Sweet Coconut Bubbles Cape Fear's Sparkling Champaign Bubbles Tippy Cape Fear's Tiny Tippy Toes Tootsie Cape Fear's Tootsie Pop Gigi Cape Fear's Georgina Darlings Cookie Cape Fear's Sugar Cookie Bunny Cape Fear's Funny Bunny Maya 8 months Cape Fear's Moonbeam Dream Maya Penny 17 weeks up and coming Mama of 2026-2027 Boss (Stud) CH Arralaine's Badlands Boss Jessie Almaza's Jessie my Love

Here you will find helpful hints and tools should you decide you'd like to groom your Bichon Grooming Your Bichon Frise NOTE : Before grooming your Bichon, it's important to make sure that you will be able to do the job. If your curly-haired pooch is matted, detangling the mats can be painful for your dog and time consuming for you. Also, if your dog is a little rowdy, grooming at home may not be as manageable for you. Supplies You Will Need: a slicker brush whitening shampoo conditioner (optional) finishing spray (optional) pet grooming clippers grooming shears dental spray (optional) ear wash (optional) nail clippers and pet nail grinder blow dryer Bathing Your Bichon When bathing your Bichon, it is important to brush them first as water will tighten any existing mats. Our dogs tend to mat under their front legs. To prevent matting, daily brushing is important . After brushing your dog, put him/her into the tub and wet them from head to toe. I use a cup to help with smaller areas, especially the face. After wetting your Bichon, lather whitening shampoo on their entire body. With our puppies we use Johnson and Johnson no more tears shampoo, its safe for their skin and eyes. Lather extra shampoo on your dog's paws and tear stains. I generally allow the whitening shampoo to sit for a while to get a brighter affect. While I let the whitening shampoo do its work, I clean my Bichon's teeth and ears. There are several ears washes available, I use a recipe I found on the internet. We use Sentry Petrodex Dental Spray for cats and dogs. You literally just have to spray their teeth making sure to spray all of their teeth. I then proceed to rinse off the shampoo. If their fur is not as soft as usual, I will proceed to condition him as well. If their fur is soft, feel free to skip this step. Blow Drying Blow drying a Bichon can be very tricky and is one of the most important steps in grooming your Bichon. Towel dry your dog until he is damp, then proceed to brush him with the slicker brush. I brush down strokes on his body and legs, for example, from the top of the shoulder brush down to his paws. I brush down strokes from under his eyes to the bottom of his muzzle and brush the top part of his head straight back. After this step, your Bichon should have a wet, straight, or slightly wavy appearance. I then proceed to blow dry him while brushing his fur in every direction to get it bone straight. There are certain parts of my dog that don't straighten completely, and this is fairly common. While blow drying, constantly check the blow dryer to make sure it's not too hot by blowing the air on the back of my hand. Remember, dogs are more sensitive to heat than humans are so, if it's hot to you it's definitely hot to them. After your dog is completely dry and straight it's time to grab the clippers. Clipping Your Bichon Give your dog one last brush before using the clippers. (I use Wahl pet clippers that I bought from Walmart for about $30 or so. They came with a couple of different guards, scissors, a comb, and an instructional DVD.) Then cut the bottom of the paws but don't go between the paw pads. Cut around the rectum being careful not to cut the rectum itself. Then, use a number 3 ( 3/8") guard for his body. Shave in downward strokes being careful not to shave their legs as the legs will have to be scissored. It's easier to not shave just above the leg to easier blend their legs when you scissor them later. Do not shave the head either as that will need to be scissored as well. After shaving the body, brush the body and the legs straight down. Try using a picture as a reference to how the legs should look. The front legs should be rounded and straight. Hold the scissors straight down and cut a straight line from the body to the end of the paws. Try not to make big changes because, when you cut too much, it's much harder to fix as opposed to not cutting enough. Cut the bottom of the paws in a circle. When cutting their legs, I've noticed it's easier to go with the line that's already there and cut the pieces that deviate instead of cutting a whole new line. Do the same thing for the back legs except remember to leave a bend for their knee. The Bichon's head is the most important part of grooming. The head should be rounded at the top and flat at the bottom for the utility cut (pet cut). Brush the top up and the bottom down. Cut the ears so that they are even to the bottom of the chin to make sure they blend well. Then round off the top of the head to blend into the ears as well. Be sure to make certain the head is bigger than the body to give a true Bichon look. Tips for Grooming Your Bichon A young puppy will more than likely not be able to be groomed this way as their coat is thinner and less curly. The adult coat comes in at 6-8 months and that's when this type of grooming will work. If you do have a puppy, brush them daily to get them used to being groomed. Try and try again. Your first time cutting your dog probably won't be perfect but if you keep at it eventually, you'll get there The more you groom your dog, the more they will eventually sit still The tail just needs to be combed, it is meant to be bushy Be sure to trim the eye area carefully so your Bichon doesn't constantly have hair falling in his/her eyes Try a sanitation trim on the bottom so their poop doesn't get stuck on your dog's bottom Be patient, grooming can be time consuming

Here you will find helpful hints on keeping your Bichons face free from staining Tear Staining With white-coated breeds such as Bichon Frise , many at some point in their life will develop those very distracting, ugly, red-brownish tear stains underneath their eyes, around their muzzles, and in between their toes. The cause can be related to health issues, shape of the eye, blocked tear-ducts, puppy teething, ear infection, allergies (either food or environmental), and so on. Therefore if your normally white-faced puffball develops aggressive staining seemingly out of the blue, first consult your veterinarian, and/or a veterinary ophthalmologist, to rule out any underlying health concern. After confirming your dog is indeed healthy, the following tips and suggestions from my own experience and feedback from other breeders will hopefully restore and maintain that beautiful, white furry face. Examine the quality of your food It is generally agreed among Bichon Frise breeders that although there are numerous and passionate opinions about brands (and further passion about kibble versus raw), a high-quality diet works best for our breed. The corn, wheat, and meats that are used as fillers in inferior-quality foods just don’t ensure long-term good health and can cause allergic reactions, resulting in excess tearing and other problems. Chicken products can often be the source of this problem. Examine the quality of your water We have noticed that they will develop staining pretty quickly in response to excess minerals. Use purified, spring, distilled, or reverse-osmosis water sources. Clean in, means clean out when it comes to water. This is normally not the cause, but can pose a problem, especially due to high iron content ! It is very important to clean water bowls once a day, provide fresh water daily. Keep those moist or “rusty” areas dry! Try using licker bottles (such as for rabbits or hamsters) instead of water bowls, especially for sloppy drinkers. Use paper towels to absorb the excess water around your dog’s mouth after he/she drinks from a bowl. Cornstarch can also be dusted underneath the eye, around the muzzle, and in between toes to help keep these areas dry. Daily eye- and mouth-hair hygiene. A quick daily “face grooming” will go a long way in keeping those stains at bay. Some tips: • Flush eyes with an appropriate canine eye-wash, such as saline eye-wash solutions or Terra Septic eye drops. • Moisten a cotton ball with the same eye wash or a contact lens solution, and rub underneath and around the eye area. • Wash the muzzle hair with dry shampoo or waterless shampoo and a wet washcloth. You may also try 3% hydrogen peroxide on a paper towel. Comb and blow-dry afterwards. • One of the biggest helpers, keep the hair around the eyes trimmed to avoid it irritating the eye and causing tearing. Use a pair of blunt/rounded end scissors to keep the hair trimmed away from the eyes. Especially the inside corners. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, make sure your groomer does it. These conditions can last from puppyhood to 7 months due to teething, but generally you'll see improvments as they mature by 3-4 months. The short of the story is that unfortunately there isn’t just one foolproof preventative, and each dog responds a little differently, so it often takes a little experimenting and patience—but it is worth the effort to have that precious little white face smiling at you ! click picture to purchase We have heard good things about this product. It may work for you !!

We are Cape Fear Bichons, a breeder of Bichon Frise puppies. We breed for quality no quantity. We are a breeder of H.E.A.R.T. All breeding dogs are O.F.A.& genetically tested, our goal is to continue to produce beautiful, healthy dogs that meet the breed standard. Cape Fear Bichons Veteran owned and operated Ltd. AKC registered pure bred Bichon Frise puppies from champion bloodlines Available to answer questions via text or email between the hrs. of 8:00am - 5:00pm everyday Available for visits, inquire ahead of time Content, including images, displayed on this website, is protected by copyright laws. Downloading, republication, retransmission or reproduction on this website is strictly prohibited.